Green fashion competition launched in Amsterdam

Ode Magazine   
July 29th, 2010

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Eighteen “dolls” with muddy faces pose in recycled plastic boxes atop 1.5-meter cubes of compressed tires, cardboard, and magazines. This isn’t standard runway fare at Amsterdam International Fashion Week (AIFW). It’s an eco collection by Kentroy Yearwood, shown on July 16 to showcase green fashion at the launch of AIFW’s Green Fashion Competition. The competition starts in September, and in January 2011 will award 25,000 Euros to the best plans and designs for a fashion business that sustains biodiversity.

When questioned on the use of bringing sustainability to high fashion – an arena often viewed as wasteful – Holly Syrett, Project Coordinator for the competition, is firm in her belief that “a fully conceptual collection would… show the possibilities of green fashion.” The progress of conscientious fashion has already been rapid – eco fashion is well beyond itchy hemp shirts. The British edition of Vogue published a list of hip ethical and sustainable brands worth knowing in 2010. And Eco Fashion World provides a growing database of sustainable companies producing affordable fashion with heart-warming stories to match.

The competition will help the industry continue to improve by highlighting solutions for problems of fiber production (toxic pesticides, oil use), fabric processing (harsh chemicals, excess waste water), garment stitching (human rights), global shipment (carbon footprint), and fashion cycles (trend and trash). Syrett explains, “A lot of designers feel limited when you start talking about sustainable fashion. We want to change that.”

To generate solutions, forty applicants will be selected for workshops on business and creation, which Syrett hopes will inspire participants to re-think fashion. New fashion cycles could develop. For instance, instead of having new collections every season, try once a year. Designs could incorporate easy alterations, offering longer life spans. Patternmaking could reduce waste. Sustainable materials and production facilities could be used. But AIFW “doesn’t want to impose… we want [designers] to be inspired in themselves and go green.”

Enter Kentroy Yearwood, designer for Intoxica, whose show launched the competition. Using local materials, waste products, organic cotton, and clean fabric treatments, he demonstrates that looks don’t suffer from sustainability. Audience members enjoyed deconstructed dresses, quaint suits, and giant wedge sandals made from cork – a renewable material.

Syrett looks at Yearwood’s now empty set, and describes why the catwalk and The Green Fashion Competition had to meet. “Goosebumps – that’s what fashion can do. It’s an art form and then you take this tiny piece and bring it into every day life.” The competition hopes the “tiny piece” consumers take away will include going green.

Story posted by Marisol in Exchange, a section of Ode Magazine devoted to readers’ submissions.

Photo: Amsterdam Fashion Week

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